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Divers Supply carries a wide array of equipment for every diver's needs. We sell new equipment with the full manufacturer's warranty and even our used rental fleet for the divers on a budget. We also have a full service, repair shop on-site.
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Our employees are PADI, SDI, and/or NAUI certified divers, so you can be confident in the advice you receive.
Come travel with Divers Supply. We take monthly trips to destinations such as the Florida Springs, Keys, and West Palm Beach. Also see information about our upcoming international destinations at the travel desk.
We offer air and EANx fills in-store by certified gas blenders.


Scuba diving is an exciting activity that combines discovery, exploration, and a slight element of calculated risk. However, exploring the underwater depths requires more than just physical fitness and mental awareness; you need reliable equipment and real-time environmental information. One of the key pieces of equipment a diver can have at their disposal is a dive computer, a small yet necessary tool that helps manage a diver’s safety.
The dive computer monitors several complex variables during a dive, including depth, dive time, and decompression status. Previously, scuba divers relied on dive tables and calculations to avoid decompression sickness. Today, a dive computer handles all these calculations, providing exact, real-time information to reduce the risk of injury. This makes diving safer and more convenient.
In this guide, you will find out how a dive computer can help you navigate your dive and keep you safe at the same time.
The dive computer acts as an assistant, continuously monitoring and calculating information that’s relevant to a diver's safety.
Its core function is to monitor the diver's depth and how long they have been submerged. This information helps the computer calculate how much nitrogen has accumulated in the diver’s body. It then uses this data to estimate how long the diver can stay underwater without needing decompression stops during the swim.
In addition to calculating no-decompression limits, the dive computer tracks the ascent rate to prevent divers from rising to the surface too fast. The device sometimes suggests or prompts safety stops, usually at shallow depths for a minute or two, to allow nitrogen to off-gas safely.
These computers retain dive data from previous dives, letting them factor in residual nitrogen when making repetitive dives completed within a brief time span. Some provide audible or visual warning if you ascend too fast, exceed your no-decompression limit, or if you encounter any condition that might compromise your safety.
Today’s dive computers streamline and simplify calculations, but also provide an added layer of confidence, making them a vital piece of equipment that boosts safety and promotes wiser, more informed diving.
Although both a dive computer and a dive watch can be worn underwater, they differ in the functions they offer. A dive watch is a rugged watch that withstands underwater pressure and measures elapsed time. The watch is used with dive tables to manually calculate a diver's underwater time, descent, and ascent.
A dive computer does much more, as it includes pressure sensors, depth meters, and software that calculates and displays decompression data in real time. While a dive watch requires a little calculation or guesswork, none is needed with a dive computer, because it handles all the technical and complex dive planning for you.
Many dive watches look good and are very versatile for everyday wear. They, however, lack the safety functions of a dive computer, including real-time decompression, ascent rate, and digital logging. And even though a dive watch can serve as a backup timing device, it is far less functional and cannot replace the features and safety features of a dedicated dive computer.
Dive computers nowadays include a vast range of functions that go far beyond mere depth and total dive time recording. The core of every dive computer is its decompression algorithm, which calculates how much nitrogen the diver has absorbed based on the dive’s depth and duration.
Different models use distinct algorithms, affecting how conservative or aggressive the dive limits are.
And while most dive computers accommodate multiple gas mixes, including air, enriched air nitrox, or even trimix on technical dives, some allow changing gases during a single dive, a key feature for more advanced dive profiles.
In the case of more advanced models, these come with wireless tank transmitters that monitor the air supply status in real time, showing how much breathing gas is available and how long it will last at the current air consumption rate.
Additional features include onboard digital compasses, surface interval counters, automatic altitude compensation, and connectivity that allows uploading dive logs to a computer or smartphone. High-quality dive computers offer great display quality as well, as low visibility or harsh sunlight can make them difficult to read. Several models also offer multiple diving modes, such as air, nitrox, freediving, gauge mode, and even rebreather capabilities.
For extra safety, dive computers include warnings for unexpected ascents, missed decompression stops, and low-battery conditions. These alerts keep the diver within safety limits and let them quickly respond to changing underwater conditions. Some of these models are rechargeable, while others have replaceable batteries. Service intervals may vary by model.
The need for a dive computer depends on the type of diving you do. For recreational divers staying within no-decompression limits and diving on regular air or nitrox, a basic dive computer will work just fine. It provides real-time monitoring and flexibility that a manual dive table can't, especially for multi-level dives.
For deeper dives, such as deep dives greater than 40 meters, tech dives with multiple gas switches, or decompression dives, a dive computer is a vital piece of equipment. These cases require careful control of gas intake and decompression stops, which cannot be managed without a dedicated computer. Most technical divers carry a backup dive computer in case the primary one malfunctions.
Freedivers work with a different kind of dive computer that tracks depth, time, and surface intervals. Although they don't need decompression monitoring, freediving computers do provide valuable information to track safety and performance.
Even when you begin with shallow, recreational diving, a dive computer is a worthwhile investment. It provides a more flexible dive plan and reinforces safe diving habits from the start. A few divers also use a simple dive watch or depth gauge as a backup, but this must not come at the expense of a feature-rich dive computer for serious diving.
Consider your diving style, skill level, and future goals. A basic model with only a few features is ideal for beginners. Divers with more experience or technical knowledge often seek advanced features such as gas-switching, decompression models, or rebreather compatibility.
Consider the level of diving you will be doing. If you plan to nitrox dive, buy a model that supports nitrox programming. For technical diving, select a model that can handle multiple gases, such as trimix or closed-circuit rebreathers. Review the algorithm the computer uses and whether it supports conservatism adjustment, especially if you prefer a more conservative dive profile.
Check the screen type when you make your choice. A bright, clear display and intuitive controls can be a lifesaver in a dark dive environment, particularly in murky water or when wearing gloves.
Connectivity is necessary for divers who need to transfer their logs and track their progress over time. Check whether the unit supports USB or Bluetooth, and if it can connect to mobile apps or desktop software.
Consider the device's battery life and longevity. Some models have replaceable batteries, whereas others have rechargeable batteries. Consider how easy it is to maintain the device, especially if you will be diving in remote areas. Finally, determine whether you prefer a wrist-mount or console-mount computer. Wrist styles are more common and comfortable for most recreational divers. But some swear by their console-mounted ones.
Finally, buy a dive computer from a reputable brand that offers good customer support and service. Here at Divers Supply, we offer a wide range of models. Our expert personnel will be happy to help you select the right equipment for your needs.
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While it's technically possible to start diving with a traditional dive table, a dive computer offers real-time safety tracking, easy dive planning, and makes diving much safer. A diving instructor would recommend that students use one right from the start, even for uncomplicated recreational dives.
No, it can not. A dive watch measures time and resists pressure, but it does not provide decompression calculations, gas tracking, or in-situ safety alerts. It's a fine standby timing device to carry along, but it cannot serve as your primary safety device on a dive.
If a malfunction occurs underwater with a dive computer, follow emergency protocols. Emergency protocols may involve switching to a spare unit or using a depth gauge and a timer. Ascend gradually, make a safety stop, and do not continue further dives until the fault is repaired.
All but the most budget-priced dive computers must be serviced every 1 or 2 years, according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Routine servicing maintains accuracy, worn components like seals, and waterproof integrity. Always check your unit before any major dive holiday.
Yes, most wrist dive computers are intended for technical diving and support advanced features such as gas switching, decompression planning, and trimix use. Still, experienced technical divers tend to use two computers as backups and often favor computers with larger screens and long-lasting batteries.


By Jerry Goss - Sales Supervisor & Course Instructor
As a professional diver, I’ve always been ahead of the game when it comes to dive watches, and I’ve also been an avid collector and admirer of them for many years, not merely because of their rugged, mission-oriented looks but for the wonderful blend of functionality, history, and craftsmanship they represent. There's something exhilarating about a watch that can survive the tremendous pressure of the ocean depths while still looking quite comfortable in a boardroom or coffee shop.
I've spent hundreds of hours researching, testing, wearing, and swimming with scores of models over the years. And, in doing so, I've learned a lot about what separates a good dive watch from an unequivocal great one. Herein, I'll take my opinion on the below collection of watch brands and their features that constitute a best-of-class dive watch, contrast a set of exemplary models across various price points, and offer recommendations for budget-conscious and deeper-pocketed collectors.
Priorities first. If it's a "dive watch," it should darn well be waterproof, shouldn’t it? ISO 6425 sets the standard 200 meters of water resistance as a minimum for an actual dive watch. That level of pressure protection gives you peace of mind knowing your watch will not fog and fail while diving down to that depth.
But it's not all about depth ratings. Brands go the extra mile with helium escape valves for saturation diving, screwed-down crowns, and reinforced case backs. My personal pick is the new “Seiko Prospex SRPE99 PADI Edition”. It's a tank that meets every utility a diver would demand.
Comfort is as essential as toughness. A 45mm dive watch may photograph heroically, but if it feels like a frying pan on your wrist, it will not see much action. My sweet spot is a case diameter of 40–42mm and a lug width of 20–22mm. That size works wonderfully underwater without being obtrusive above the water. For instance, the “Orient Mako II” wears beautifully on the wrist at 41.5mm and 22mm lug spacing. It is perfect for everyday wear or extended dives without being overpowering.
A dive watch that isn’t readable in the dark is useless. Clarity is everything, and the top dive watches excel in this aspect. Ample use of “Super-LumiNova” or “Seiko's LumiBrite” gets the job done in dark depths or nighttime dives. The “Citizen Promaster Diver BN0151-09L” excels here, with huge markers and bright, long-lasting lume that outshines watches that cost three times its price. I've used it for several late-evening dives, and I’ve never had to wrinkle up my eyes to look at it once. That kind of trust only comes with experience.
Timing your dives is no joke; that's why your watch’s bezel is your best friend. A unidirectional bezel prevents you from ever unintentionally adding a few minutes to your dive duration—a potentially fatal mistake. Whether a diver's gun has a 120-click aluminum bezel or a thin, smooth ceramic one with no back play, it must be comfortably easy to grip and turn, even in gloved or wet hands. Even the budget-friendly “Casio Duro MDV106-1A” gets this right and demonstrates you don't need to spend a fortune to hit the essentials.
There's a philosophical debate among diving fans and enthusiasts about whether quartz or mechanical is the best. I like them both personally. Quartz movement like the “Citizen Eco-Drive” is über-accurate and hassle-free. For a more vintage, mechanical vibe, I love the self-winding in-house movement of the “Orient Mako II for a more vintage, mechanical vibe”. You feel good knowing a little engine on your wrist driven only by your activity.
These are my go-tos if you're entering the dive watch world on a budget price range.
Under $50, the Duro is an institution. Darling of everyone as the "Marlin," this watch is all about function: 200m water resistance, quartz movement, decent lume, and a simple, classic design. I've presented this watch to several newly minted diving buddies—it's a rite of passage.
For a bit more than $200, you get solar power, ISO rating, and excellent build. The rubber band strap is one of the comfiest I've ever worn, and the glow is excellent. It's the perfect everyday diver for someone who wants low maintenance.
This watch is a legend among watch enthusiasts with an automatic caliber, hand-winding, hacking, robust steel bracelet, and nice-looking dial. From $160 to $200, it overachieves its weight category in style and performance.
Are you looking for a reliable dive watch without breaking the bank? Plenty of options under $500 offer excellent performance, stylish designs, and solid water resistance.
Seiko is one brand that always offers fantastic value out of all dive watches, and the SRP777 or "Turtle" is no exception. At around $400, this watch is an icon of diving watches. Its 200m water resistance is sufficient for anything less than professional diving, and the Seiko automatic movement (the 4R36) is as strong as a rock and never needs to be adjusted.
Citizen's Promaster Diver BN0151-09L is the eco-friendly watch ideal for the diver who needs functionality and a sense of sustainability in a sizzling package. This watch, available at around $250, is solar-powered and thus not only a fantastic choice but also one that eliminates the hassle of battery replacements. The watch is 200m water-resistant to withstand most diving chores, and the unidirectional bezel allows you to track your dive time safely.
For anyone looking for a capable, affordable, and stylish dive watch, the Orient Mako II does not let down. At $160 to $200, the watch over-delivers on quality and value. The Mako II has a water resistance rating of 200m, which makes it ISO-rated for professional diving. Powered by the in-house Orient Caliber F6922 automatic caliber, it has hand-winding and hacking, adding an extra layer of versatility and precision to the watch.
For serious collectors looking to bring their A-game, these watches are a bargain and a long-term good investment.
Priced at just under $800, this Swiss diver offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve, 300 meters of water resistance, and a durable ceramic bezel. It's a perfect blend of refinement and ruggedness, with build quality that’s unmatched in its price range. I wear mine to black-tie dinners and weekend dives alike—it transitions effortlessly.
Hamilton blends field-wrist toughness with dive-ready aesthetics. Its 100m water resistance is slightly below ISO standards but sufficient for resort diving. The olive-green face of the 2023 version is a stunner and unexpectedly versatile.
This approximately $550 watch is a certified dive beast. It combines Seiko's rich diving history with modern aesthetics. With its rock-solid automatic movement, the PADI branding is a salute to serious divers.
The best all-rounder for me is the original "Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80", and here's why:
This watch is a perfect combination of strength, performance, and looks, so it is an absolute must-have for anyone seeking a good-quality dive watch. It contains everything you could want: a solid depth rating, a liberal 80-hour power reserve, Swiss craftsmanship, and a thin, outstanding design that easily translates from underwater depths to boardrooms on dry land.
What makes this watch so special is its multi-functionality. The 300-meter water resistance is ideal for all levels of diving, and the ceramic bezel gives it a little extra luxury and resilience. The Powermatic 80 movement is highly accurate and has a massive power reserve; it lasts for days on end before needing to be wound. Its case diameter sits comfortably on most wrists, giving the ideal balance between size and wearing.
The Tissot Seastar is a watch that can resist the demands of an active lifestyle without compromising elegance. It's an excellent all-around diver and an incredible all-around watch in general. The best news is that the price is still within reach for most collectors, making it an exceptional investment for both seasoned watch enthusiasts and newcomers to the world of dive watches.
No surprise here—the “Casio Duro MDV106-1A” is hands down the best budget dive watch. For around $50, it has the diver's needs without the bling. Sure, you're not getting sapphire crystal or movement, but it makes up for it with reliability and rugged build. The Casio Duro is as no-frills as it gets, but that's precisely what makes it such a gem. It's a plain, trusty dive watch that won't break the bank, but still has the essentials you'd expect from a serious diving tool.
What you get for so little money is just remarkable. Its 200-meter water resistance ensures it will survive even the most recreational dives. The unidirectional rotating bezel moves smoothly and precisely, ensuring you stay on track with dive time. The watch's build is unexpectedly robust, with a stainless steel case and a resin strap that holds up well to water pressure and rough conditions. The clear, unobstructed dial is easy to read above and below water because of its large, lighted markings.
Dive watches aren't just tools—they are also a lifestyle, an emblem of capability, and a connection to a pioneering past. From Jacques Cousteau's adventurous underwater forays to James Bond's cinematic adventures, the dive watch has entrenched itself within watchmaking legend. From budget quartz options like the Casio Duro to luxury Swiss-automatics like the Tissot Seastar, there's a diver's watch to fit every wrist and every pocketbook. It’s fun to accumulate them not only because of their variety but also their ruggedness and perseverance.
Throughout my voyage of discovery with dive watches, I've found that the best watches are not always the most expensive—the best divers are the ones that beckon you to put them on, test them, and trust them. Whether in shallow water diving or out diving deeper waters searching wrecks, a quality dive watch is a testament to grit, reliability, and the never-ending pursuit of perfection.


When you're gearing up for your next underwater adventure, one of the key pieces of equipment listed is fins. But here's where many people get confused: should you be looking for "flippers" or "fins"? And more importantly, how do you choose the right type for your underwater activity?
The terminology can be confusing, although most divers often use "fins" and "flippers" interchangeably. So, let’s take a look at the perfect fins for you!
The short answer: They're the same thing. The terms "flippers" and "fins" are used interchangeably to describe the same thing. There are, however, some subtle distinctions in how these terms are commonly used.
The term "flippers" is often used as a more casual, general term by recreational swimmers and beachgoers seeking equipment for surface activities.
Meanwhile, "fins" is the word used by serious divers, snorkelers, and aquatic sports enthusiasts who view their equipment as specialized gear. In technical diving circles and professional equipment catalogs, "fins" has become the standard terminology to reflect the more serious and technical approach that divers use.
Regardless of what you call them, flippers or fins, these key pieces of equipment serve the same purpose: to increase your propulsion underwater with the least effort.
Best for: Scuba diving, cold water diving, technical diving
Open-heel fins feature an adjustable heel strap with a reliable buckle system, allowing you to customize the fit even when wearing thick diving boots. These fins are designed to be worn with specialized diving boots or thick neoprene socks, allowing them to be used in cold water.
The larger blade size characteristic of open-heel fins delivers maximum propulsion with each kick. At the same time, their design makes them remarkably easy to put on and remove, even when you're wearing bulky wetsuit boots or have cold fingers.
Best for: Snorkeling, warm water diving, swimming, travel
Full-foot fins feature an enclosed heel design that slips on like a comfortable shoe. These fins are typically worn barefoot or with thin neoprene socks and are perfect for warm water conditions where thermal protection isn't a primary concern.
They are lighter and more compact than open-heel alternatives and are usually more affordable, making them accessible to recreational users and those just starting their underwater journey.
Best for: Recreational diving, divers with knee or leg issues, long-duration dives
Split fins are, as their name suggests, split down the middle to create two separate channels. They are designed to reduce effort while still providing sufficient propulsion for divers and snorkelers. Split fins are available in both open-heel and full-foot designs to accommodate diving environments and water temperatures.
Best for: Strong swimmers, technical diving, underwater photography, spearfishing
Paddle fins feature a solid, uninterrupted blade design that creates maximum surface area for water displacement with each kick. This traditional fin design provides direct power transfer from your leg muscles to forward propulsion without any energy loss through splits or channels.
Many modern paddle fins incorporate subtle design elements, such as small channels or vents, to improve water flow and minimize turbulence.
Recommended: Full-foot fins (closed-heel)
Full-foot fins are the best choice for snorkeling because they're lightweight and designed for easy surface swimming, where you don't need the maximum power that heavier fins provide. They're comfortable for extended wear during long snorkeling sessions.
Their slip-on design makes them incredibly convenient to put on at the beach or boat, without the need for additional boots or complex buckle systems. They provide sufficient power for surface activities and shallow diving and can be worn for hours without discomfort.
Recommended: Open-heel fins or full-foot fins (depending on water temperature)
Your choice for recreational scuba diving depends on the water temperature where you'll be diving most often.
In warm-water destinations like the Caribbean, Maldives, or tropical Pacific locations, full-foot fins are comfortable and portable, making them perfect for vacation diving. They're easier to pack, don't require additional boots, and provide the proper propulsion for most recreational diving scenarios.
In cold-water environments like the Pacific Northwest, Great Lakes, or northern Atlantic, open-heel fins paired with diving boots are preferable because they provide thermal protection.
If you're planning longer dives or multiple-dive days, consider split fins regardless of water temperature, as they will help reduce leg fatigue and make your diving more enjoyable over extended periods.
Recommended: Open-heel paddle fins
Technical diving requires the most from your equipment, and paddle fins with an open-heel design deliver the performance that technical divers require.
You need the maximum power to carry heavy equipment loads, deal with strong currents, or keep your positioning during decompression stops.
Open-heel fins are compatible with the thick boots and dry suits that technical divers wear in challenging environments. These fins provide you with complete control over the thrust, even in tight spaces.
Recommended: Paddle fins with precise control
Underwater photographers and videographers require fins that provide exceptional maneuverability for positioning shots and allow for subtle adjustments without disturbing the subject or disturbing the sediment.
Paddle fins offer the precise control necessary to maintain stability while framing shots. They are powerful enough to help you stay stable against a surge or current and keep your camera steady. Yet, they are responsive enough to make quick adjustments when a photo opportunity presents itself.
Recommended: Long-blade freediving fins
Spearfishing and freediving require specialized long-blade fins. These fins are exceptionally efficient for extended underwater swimming, which is necessary when hunting fish or exploring on a single breath.
These fins support various kick techniques used in freediving, particularly the dolphin kick, which is most efficient for deep breath-hold dives. These fins are often made from materials such as carbon fiber or specialized plastics that provide excellent flex characteristics, improving freediving performance. The longer blade length provides maximum propulsion per kick, which is necessary when you need to cover distance or depth efficiently while holding your breath.
Recommended: Short, stiff training fins
Swimming and pool training need fins designed for stroke technique improvement rather than maximum propulsion.
These training fins feature shorter blade lengths, allowing for faster kick rates. They help swimmers develop proper kicking rhythm and leg strength. The stiffer construction is resistant to building muscle strength and endurance. Unlike diving fins, training fins are designed to work in conjunction with swimming strokes and turns, helping swimmers maintain proper body position and develop more powerful kicks.
The stiffness of your fin blade affects both performance and comfort.
Soft blades are easier on your leg muscles and joints. They are also ideal for beginners who are still building up their kicking strength and technique, as well as casual users who prioritize comfort over maximum performance.
Medium stiffness blades balance good propulsion with normal leg strength.
Stiff blades are made for maximum power transfer from your legs to forward motion. They are the best choice for strong swimmers and divers who need to overcome challenging conditions, such as heavy currents.
The length of your fin blade affects both the power generated with each kick.
Shorter blades require less effort to move through the water. They are easier for beginners to use and less likely to cause leg fatigue during longer dives or snorkeling sessions. They are also great for quicker kick rates, which some divers prefer for maneuverability in tight spaces.
Longer blades provide more propulsion per kick cycle. They are more efficient for covering distance and particularly for experienced divers who have developed the leg strength and technique to use them effectively without excessive fatigue.
Traditional rubber fins are durable and good value, with a time-tested material that performs reliably across a wide range of conditions and temperatures.
Modern thermoplastic alternatives are often lighter than rubber and available in a wider variety of colors and designs. They are reliable and reasonably priced.
Carbon fiber is the premium end of fin materials, offering exceptional performance with great flex and power transfer, but it is more expensive than the alternatives.
Modern fin designs have drainage holes or water flow channels. Well-designed channels can actually improve propulsion and swimming efficiency.
Look for fins with drainage holes that let water flow through efficiently. The drainage reduces the drag that occurs when water gets trapped in pockets or recesses of the fin design.
Full-foot fins should fit snugly around your entire foot but never be painfully tight, as this can restrict blood circulation and cause cramping during extended use. Your toes must not extend beyond the toe pocket, but they also shouldn't be cramped or curled up inside the fin. Make sure there are no significant gaps around the heel or sides of the foot pocket, as this can cause the fin to slip off or create inefficient water flow.
Try the fins in the afternoon when your feet are naturally slightly swollen from daily activity. It will give you a better sense of how they will fit during actual diving conditions when your feet may expand slightly.
Factor in the thickness of the diving boots you will be wearing, as this affects the fit and comfort. The heel strap must be easily adjustable to accommodate your booted foot, but it shouldn't be extended to its maximum length during routine use, as this doesn't leave room for adjustment or replacement.
Make sure that the foot pocket holds your booted foot securely, without excessive pressure points or loose areas that could cause blisters. Always check that the heel strap doesn't dig uncomfortably into your leg during extended wear.
Basic full-foot fins in this price range are ideal for occasional snorkeling and pool use. They are geared towards casual users who dive infrequently and don't require specific features or premium materials.
Quality fins in this category feature superior materials and improved designs that boost performance. These fins are more durable for regular recreational use. They are ideal for divers who are active several times per month or take annual diving vacations.
High-performance fins in this range are made of advanced materials and sophisticated engineering. They are designed for serious divers and professionals who ask for excellent performance, durability, and specialized features.
Fins and flippers are essentially the same, but there are still some key considerations to keep in mind before making a choice.
First and foremost, your primary activity determines the performance characteristics you need most from your fins.
Your experience level determines how much power and complexity you can effectively handle. Beginners prefer easier-to-use fins while experienced divers choose more demanding, high-performance designs.
Don’t underestimate your physical condition, particularly the strength of your leg muscles and any joint issues, which will determine whether you should choose fins that require more effort but provide more power, or designs that reduce strain while still providing adequate propulsion.
Water conditions, including temperature and current strength, also dictate whether you need the thermal protection of open-heel fins or if full-foot designs are sufficient.
Consider your travel needs, especially if you frequently dive in different locations, as the weight and bulk of your fins can significantly impact your luggage situation and overall travel convenience.
Ultimately, your budget determines not only which fins you can afford initially, but also affects long-term value considerations, such as durability and the potential need for additional equipment, like boots.
Whichever gear you choose, our staff is always happy to help you pick the best one for your needs. Order online or at a store near you — and don't forget to check our sale section and our new arrivals!
Yes, "fins" and "flippers" are simply different names for the same equipment. "Flippers" is more casual language, while "fins" is the technical term preferred by the diving community and equipment manufacturers.
It depends on the diving conditions. Full-foot snorkeling fins work fine for warm water recreational scuba diving, but you'll need open-heel fins with boots for cold water diving or when you need maximum power for challenging conditions.
Full-foot fins should feel snug without being painful. Your toes shouldn't extend beyond the toe pocket or have gaps around the heel. Open-heel fins should hold your booted foot securely, with the strap adjustable but not at maximum extension.
You might have fins that are too stiff for your current fitness level, or they may not fit properly. You can switch to split fins or softer paddle fins to reduce leg strain. Also, check that your fins aren't too tight, as this can restrict blood flow.
Yes, fins are generally allowed in carry-on bags; however, they do take up significant space. Full-foot fins are more travel-friendly thanks to their compact size. Always check your airline's policies, as some may have restrictions on sports equipment.


Going spearfishing is one of the most primal and rewarding forms of fishing. It combines the thrill of the hunt with the serenity of being underwater. Unlike traditional angling, spearfishing requires you to pursue the fish in their natural environment. It is more adventurous and active, and has evolved into a modern sport that demands skill, patience, and respect for marine ecosystems.
Part of your spearfishing adventure is to discover the underwater world and connect with it. You get glimpses of life in the sea. This sport lets you become an active participant rather than just an observer. You learn about fish behavior, ocean conditions, and how to adjust your body to the requirements of this world.
A successful spearfishing adventure depends on the right equipment. Each piece of gear serves a purpose and impacts your safety, comfort, and effectiveness. Quality equipment is not just about performance; it is about enjoying your sport safely. With the right equipment, you can also maximize your time in the water and extend your expeditions.
Let’s take a look at the basic spearfishing equipment you will need.
A quality mask provides clear vision underwater, allowing you to see beneath the surface.
One thing to look for in a diving mask is a perfect fit. The mask must seal comfortably against your face without requiring the strap to hold it in place. Try a simple test: place the mask against your face without the strap and inhale gently through your nose. The mask should stay in place through suction alone. In addition to a proper seal, many spearfishers opt for low-volume masks because they contain less air space. Low-volume masks sit closer to the face, making equalization easier and reducing drag while swimming.
Another key part of the mask is the lens. Tempered glass is the industry standard as it won't shatter into dangerous shards if broken. It also provides excellent vision compared to plastic alternatives. Some masks feature side windows for peripheral vision, though these do increase the internal volume slightly. When purchasing a mask, check which feature matters most to you.
Your fishing environment impacts your mask choice. In clear tropical waters, a standard clear lens mask works perfectly well. If you are diving in murky water or at greater depths where light becomes limited, consider masks with larger lenses that maximize light intake. In contrast, if you choose to spearfish in shallow reef environments, where precision around coral and rocks is required, a low-profile mask reduces drag and catches less current.
The snorkel might seem like a simple piece of equipment, but it is the cornerstone of your dive, as it lets you breathe while floating face down on the surface. With a snorkel, you observe the underwater environment quietly as you breathe through it.
The most effective snorkels feature a simple J-tube design. Many beginners like dry-top snorkels with purge valves and other features, while experienced spearfishers usually opt for the reliability of a basic tube.
The mouthpiece must be made of soft silicone to minimize jaw fatigue, and the bore size must be large enough to allow for comfortable breathing.
A flexible section near the mouthpiece lets the snorkel move naturally with your head position and reduces jaw strain. It also prevents the tube from being pulled from your mouth when you dive.
If you frequently dive to depth and spend minimal time on the surface, opt for a lightweight design that doesn't interfere with your diving. If you prefer long surface swims or extended observation periods, comfort becomes more significant. In rough water conditions, simpler designs tend to be more reliable and more practical.
First and foremost, you need a wetsuit to keep warm. But you also need one for buoyancy control and to protect yourself from encounters with marine life. In addition, a wetsuit protects your skin from abrasions against rocks, coral, and other underwater hazards.
The proper wetsuit thickness demands vary with water temperature, but the relationship isn't always straightforward:
A suit that is too loose will allow water to flush through and destroy the thin layer of warm water that insulates your body. Conversely, a suit that's too tight will restrict blood flow and breathing; you will quickly feel tired just trying to swim in such a tight suit.
A suit with proper fitting must feel snug when dry but not restrictively tight. Keep in mind that neoprene will loosen slightly when wet and warm.
If you are spearfishing around rocky reefs or wrecks, reinforced knee and chest panels are certainly welcome. Rocky coastal areas require suits with reinforced protection for your safety.
If you like to dive from boats in open water, opt for a wetsuit that keeps you warm. Remember that temperatures vary with the seasons: you may need different suits for summer and winter diving, or a modular system that allows layering.
The type of diving you plan to do also matters. If you like to deep-dive, you might prefer a smooth-skin suit. If shallow waters are your thing, lined neoprene is more flexible.
Quality gloves protect your hands from cuts, stings, and cold water, while providing the dexterity needed to handle your equipment. They also offer a good grip on wet surfaces and equipment.
Like wetsuits, gloves come in thicknesses.
Thinner gloves in the 1-3mm range provide excellent tactile feedback and finger sensitivity. Thicker 5mm gloves offer better warmth in cold water and protection against sharp coral, fish spines, and rough surfaces.
Many spearfishers find that 2-3mm gloves provide the best compromise for most conditions.
Reinforced palms with textured surfaces offer a significantly improved grip on smooth spearguns and other equipment. They also add durability where wear is heaviest. Some gloves feature different materials on the palm and fingers for both grip and flexibility.
Consider whether you need full-finger coverage or prefer fingerless designs for improved sensitivity.
Full-finger gloves offer maximum protection and warmth, but can reduce the sensation of trigger pressure. Fingerless gloves are more flexible but leave your fingertips vulnerable to cuts and cold.
Rocky reef environments with sharp coral and abrasive surfaces call for maximum protection, even at the cost of some dexterity. In areas with stinging marine life, such as jellyfish or fire coral, opt for full hand coverage.
If you dive in cold water, choose warm gloves, even if they sacrifice some flexibility.
Longer cuffs that extend well up the wrist prevent water from seeping through. Some designs feature wrist straps or closures that help seal your wetsuit sleeve.
Fins will make your spearfishing a smooth adventure. The right fins can make the difference between effortless diving and exhausting struggles against the water.
Fin length directly affects power and efficiency, impacting the energy required to use them effectively.
Longer fins offer more thrust per kick and are more efficient if you want to cover long distances or dive deep. But they also require more leg strength and can be cumbersome in tight spaces around reefs and structures.
Shorter fins are easier to use and more maneuverable, but require more frequent kicking to keep your speed.
Softer blades are more forgiving and require less strength to use effectively. They are ideal for beginners or those with less developed leg muscles.
Stiffer blades generate more power per kick but require greater leg strength. Many experienced divers prefer stiffer blades, especially when diving deep or battling strong currents.
A loose foot pocket can cause blisters and reduce power transfer, while one that's too tight will restrict circulation and lead to cramping. The foot pocket must hold your foot securely without creating pressure points. The blade must align properly with your leg.
Fins are traditionally made from plastic, fiberglass, or carbon fiber:
If you like to deep-dive, you want longer, stiffer blades that maximize efficiency during long ascents and descents. Conversely, shallow reef spearfishing calls for shorter, more maneuverable fins.
If you are a beginner, consider starting with medium-length, moderately soft blades, which are more forgiving to learn on.
Consider the current conditions in diving areas. Strong currents require stiffer blades that can generate the power needed to keep your position against the flow. In calmer conditions, you can favor efficiency and comfort over raw power.
The Aqualung Storm fins are excellent all-around fins suitable for most divers and conditions. They strike a balance between power, efficiency, and maneuverability at a reasonable price.
At the premium end, ScubaPro Seawing Nova fins offer maximum efficiency and performance for serious spearfishers willing to invest in top-quality equipment.
Proper weighting helps you achieve neutral buoyancy at your target depth, allowing you to dive with minimal effort. Too little weight and you will struggle to descend and maintain depth, too much and you will sink like a stone.
A rubber weight belt is generally a better alternative to nylon because it stretches with your body and maintains your position more effectively as your wetsuit compresses with depth. Rubber belts also tend to stay in place better during active fishing and are less likely to slide around your waist.
Your weight belt must be able to drop instantly if you need emergency buoyancy. Practice the release motion until it becomes automatic and second nature.
Evenly spaced weights prevent the belt from rolling and reduce pressure points. Some divers prefer to position slightly more weight toward their back to keep a head-down diving posture.
How much weight do you need? The calculation goes beyond your body weight.
Consider the thickness of your spearfishing wetsuit, as thicker neoprene provides more buoyancy, which you must offset with additional weight.
Saltwater requires more weight than freshwater due to its increased buoyancy. Saltwater is denser than freshwater because of the dissolved salts, which increase the buoyant force.
As you descend underwater, the increased pressure compresses the neoprene in your wetsuit, reducing the air trapped inside and therefore decreasing its buoyancy. This loss of buoyancy occurs regardless of whether you are in saltwater or freshwater.
Begin with a conservative estimate and refine it through testing. A properly weighted diver must be able to maintain neutral buoyancy at their target hunting depth with empty lungs. To achieve this, make sure you are slightly positive at the surface with full lungs, allowing for buoyancy loss as you descend and your wetsuit compresses.
If you are spearfishing in areas with strong currents, you might need more weight to maintain your position.
Deep diving requires precise weighting since minor errors are magnified at depth. Shore diving might influence your weight choice based on entry and exit conditions.
A dive knife is not only useful for spearfishing but also serves as a safety tool.
The blade size must strike a balance between utility and convenience. Larger blades can be unwieldy and may catch on things while diving. Smaller blades may be inadequate for larger fish or cutting through tough materials.
A 4-6 inch blade is ideal for most tasks and is manageable underwater, while being easy to secure to your person.
Stainless steel is the norm for corrosion resistance, but not all stainless steels are created equal. Look for knives made from high-quality stainless steel alloys that can hold a sharp edge and resist corrosion. Some knives feature special coatings for even greater corrosion resistance.
A straight edge is ideal for making precise cuts and performing utility work. A serrated section is welcome when cutting through rope, kelp, and tough materials. Many dive knives feature both edge types on the same blade.
The handle must provide a secure, non-slip grip that works reliably even with gloves. Finger grooves and textured surfaces help with finger control. Check that the overall fits comfortably in your hand.
Smaller reef fish require less substantial blades. If you like to spearfish in the open sea, you need larger knives.
If you frequently dive in kelp forests, a serrated edge comes in handy to cut through vegetation.
The Cressi Borg is a reliable performer, with good ergonomics at a reasonable price. It is an excellent choice for most spearfishers.
The ScubaPro Mako features a multi-function blade that includes a serrated edge for sawing through rope, a conventional edge for making clean slicing cuts, a line cutting notch, and a bottle opener. The Tanto tip, with its angled shape, is one of the strongest knife points available.
The speargun is obviously your primary tool. The choice of speargun impacts your spearfishing and how you enjoy your adventure.
Band-powered spearguns are the most common type: they use rubber bands to propel the spear. They are generally easier to maintain, more reliable, and more forgiving for beginners to learn on. Its power can be easily adjusted by adding or removing bands, and repairs are straightforward with readily available parts.
Pneumatic spearguns use compressed air to drive the spear. They are more powerful in a shorter package. Pneumatic spearguns are particularly effective for larger fish and can be more accurate thanks to their consistent power delivery. However, they do require more maintenance and are more sensitive to sand and debris, while some beginners may find them complicated.
Gun length affects how the speargun performs.
Longer guns in the 90-130cm range are more accurate and powerful, making them ideal for open-water hunting and targeting larger fish. The increased barrel length provides a more precise aim and a more complete band stretch, resulting in higher spear velocity and energy.
Medium-length guns, in the 75-90cm range, strike a balance between power and maneuverability. They are practical choices for mixed spearfishing expeditions. They are powerful enough for most fish and remain manageable in moderately confined spaces.
Shorter guns, in the 60-75cm range, are ideal in tight spaces around reefs, caves, and structures where longer guns would be unwieldy. They sacrifice some power and accuracy, but their maneuverability is unmatched in tight underwater spaces.
Power requirements must match your target species and spearfishing environment.
You can catch small reef fish with light guns featuring single bands. Light guns minimize damage to the fish and reduce the chance of over-penetration.
Medium-sized fish, ranging from 2 to 10 kilograms, require guns with double bands or moderate pneumatic power.
Large species over 10 kilograms demand high-powered guns with multiple bands or high-pressure pneumatic systems.
Your environment influences your gun selection.
Open ocean fishing requires longer, more powerful guns that can handle larger fish at greater distances.
Reef and structure spearfishing calls for shorter, more maneuverable guns that you can aim quickly in confined spaces. Cave and wreck hunting requires compact spearguns that won't get caught on overhead obstacles.
Finally, premium guns feature better triggers, more precise manufacturing tolerances, and higher quality materials that translate to better performance when it matters most. You have to balance performance against cost and decide which feature is more significant to you.
The A.B. Biller Special is an excellent entry to intermediate-level gun that delivers solid performance and reliability at a reasonable price. It's well-suited for most fishing situations and fish sizes while being forgiving enough for developing skills.
The JBL Magnum offers higher-end performance with improved accuracy and build quality. It is ideal for serious spearfishers seeking excellent performance. Its design incorporates features that improve both power delivery and handling characteristics.
While the right equipment will certainly make your spearfishing expeditions better and more successful, your journey requires more than that.
Begin by becoming familiar with the local fishing waters and the species that inhabit them. Observe fish behavior, seasonal patterns, and habitats to improve your success rate and fish more sustainably.
Do not underestimate proper training. Look for experienced teachers or formal courses that can teach you vital skills, such as breath-holding techniques, underwater safety, fish handling, and local regulations.
Check your area for spearfishing clubs or associations that welcome newcomers and provide valuable learning opportunities.
Practice your equipment handling and shooting accuracy on land before entering the water. Load and reload your speargun repeatedly until the motions become automatic. Practice shooting at targets to develop your skills and learn your gun's capabilities and limitations.
Learn and respect local regulations. Spearfishing rules vary by location and may include restrictions on species, size, season, area, and equipment. Respect these regulations to protect the environment and avoid penalties.
Your safety comes first. The following instructions are key to staying safe. Never dive alone; always use the buddy system. Know your physical limitations. You need to know which safety equipment is proper and how to use it. Spearfishing accidents are often preventable with proper preparation and prudent decision-making.
Focus on quality over quantity in both equipment and approach. It's better to invest in a few high-quality pieces of equipment than to accumulate a lot of mediocre gear. Likewise, taking fewer, higher-quality fish is more sustainable and ultimately more satisfying than filling a bag with marginal specimens.
Spearfishing blends physical challenge, mental discipline, and environmental connection that few other activities can match. The sport demands respect for both the marine environment and one's own limitations, but offers extraordinary rewards for those willing to invest the time and effort in developing their skills.
While the initial investment in quality gear may seem substantial, the right tools will provide years of reliable service and accompany you through your underwater adventures.
Remember that becoming a skilled spearfisher is a journey that unfolds over many seasons and countless dives. Start with the necessary equipment that fits with your local conditions and upgrade components as your experience grows and your interests develop.
The most successful spearfishers combine technical skills with profound knowledge and respect for the marine environment. We are temporary visitors in a complex ecosystem that deserves protection. This perspective not only makes you a better fisherman but also guarantees the sport remains sustainable for future generations to enjoy.
Choose your gear carefully, learn to use it properly, and always remember that the most incredible catches are often the memories and experiences that come from time spent beneath the waves in pursuit of the perfect shot.
Whichever gear you choose, our staff at Divers Supply is always happy to help you pick the best one for your needs. Order online or at a store near you — and don't forget to check our sale section and our new arrivals!
A basic starter setup can range from $400 to $800, including a mask and snorkel, fins, a wetsuit, a weight belt, a knife, and an entry-level speargun. Mid-range setups cost between $800 and $1,500, while premium equipment can exceed $2,000. It's better to buy quality gear once rather than repeatedly replace cheap equipment.
A properly fitting mask is the first item to invest in because poor vision underwater makes everything else irrelevant. After that, focus on a wetsuit suitable for your water temperature and a reliable speargun that is appropriate for your target species and hunting environment.
Some scuba gear works fine (mask, fins, weights), but spearfishing-specific equipment is usually better. Spearfishing wetsuits are more flexible, freediving fins are longer and more efficient, and dive knives designed for spearfishing have features specifically for fish handling and line cutting.
Water temperature is the primary factor: 1-3mm for water above 75°F, 3-5mm for water between 60°F and 75°F, and 5-7mm for water below 60°F. Also consider how long you will be diving, your cold tolerance, and whether you will be diving to great depths, where compression reduces insulation.
Band-powered guns use rubber bands for propulsion, are easier to maintain, and can be adjusted by adding/removing bands. Pneumatic guns use compressed air, can be more powerful in shorter packages, but require more maintenance and are more complex for beginners.
Gun length depends on your hunting environment: 60-75cm for tight reef spaces, 75-90cm for mixed conditions, and 90-130cm for open water and large fish. Longer guns are more accurate and powerful, but they are also harder to maneuver in confined spaces.
Yes, absolutely. Float systems provide safety because they mark your location, offer fish storage, and are required by law in many areas. The float line must be 50% longer than your maximum dive depth.
Rinse all equipment with fresh water after each use, especially metal components. Store neoprene away from heat and UV light. Check bands, lines, and safety releases. Service spearguns according to the manufacturer's recommendations and replace worn components as needed.
Plastic fins are affordable and durable, but less efficient than fins made from stiffer materials. Fiberglass fins offer excellent performance and value for most divers, combining efficiency with moderate cost. Carbon fiber fins provide maximum efficiency and performance, but they come at a significantly higher price. Choose fins based on your budget, skill level, and desired performance.
Some items, like masks, snorkels, and bare wetsuits, can be good used purchases provided they are in good condition. However, be cautious with safety equipment such as spearguns, weight belts, and knives. Always inspect used gear thoroughly and replace any components that appear questionable.










